California Bill May Stop Declawing and Devocalization Requirements

California bill may stop landlords from requiring declawing or devocalization of animals.

By Marissa Heflin

Article from The Reptile Channel

Click image to enlarge California may pass a Bill to prevent landlords from ordering tenants to declaw or devocalize their animals.

The California Assembly yesterday passed a bill that would prohibit landlords from requiring tenants or potential tenants to declaw or devocalize their animal as a condition of occupancy.
“Animal” is defined as any mammal, bird, reptile or amphibian.
AB 2743, which was introduced by Assemblyperson Pedro Nava in February, claims that such procedures have irreversible effects on the animals.
In addition, the bill states that declawing and devocalizing may have the unintended consequence of creating potential public health and safety concerns. For example, there may be a safety risk to police officers posed by a devocalized attack dog present on property that law enforcement officers have legal cause to enter, according to the bill.
Furthermore, “the permanence of these surgical procedures contrasts with the temporary nature of the occupancy of real property owned by another, which generally lasts only for a fixed term and may be terminated upon notice by one of the parties.”
The California Veterinary Medical Association, which has long been against legislation pushing for declaw bans, agrees with the bill’s concept but officially opposes it due to certain language.
“Landlords should not be making these medical decisions,” said Mark Nunez, DVM, president of CVMA. “These decisions need to be made between a veterinarian and the pet owner. However, various aspects of the bill’s language cause us to oppose the bill.”
An early version of the bill stated that declawing cats and other animals is cruel and unnecessary. It also stated that declawed cats have a tendency to bite more often than cats that have not been declawed.
“We felt this was inflammatory and unscientific language,” Dr. Nunez said.
The language has since been removed with the cooperation of the bill’s author, but concerns still remain with other language, according to Nunez. For instance, CVMA does not agree that declawing may create a potential public health risk. The association also takes issue with bill’s definition of “nontherapeutic.”
Still, Nunez said he is encouraged with the progress and is hopeful a revision can be made that they can all agree on.
The California Apartment Association, which represents more than 50,000 rental housing owners and managers, supports the bill.
The CAA decided years ago that it would not include declaw or debarking requirements in its industry forms, said Debra Carlton, senior vice president of legislative affairs. Instead, the CAA recommends that property owners rely on pet deposits to cover any damage to the unit.
“We thought that [declaw or debarking requirements] would be negative,” Carlton said. “That type of decision should be made between the pet owner and their veterinarian.”
Violators of the bill would be subject to a fine of up to $1,000 for each violation that does not result in the declawing or devocalization of an animal. A fine of up to $2,500 would be imposed for each animal that is declawed or devocalized as a result of a landlord-tenant agreement. The money would be paid to the animal owner.
The bill now moves to the Senate. Click here to view the bill. 

Louisiana Reptile House Bill 1354

Louisiana to hold public hearing on House Bill 1354 targeting reptiles and amphibians.

Article From Reptile Channel 

Louisiana legislators have introduced a bill that seeks to expand current licensing regulations to include certain non-indigenous and poisonous snakes. A public hearing on the measure is scheduled for May 5.

As introduced, House Bill 1354 would require any person buying, acquiring or handling any live species of native reptile or amphibian, or any live species of poisonous snake or constrictor, in the state for sale or resale to acquire a reptile and amphibian wholesale/retail dealer’s license. Current law covers native reptiles or amphibians only. Permits would be issued by the state Department of Wildlife and Fisheries and cost $105 for Louisiana residents and $405 for non-residents.

In addition, the bill would require permits for the importation and private possession of constrictor snakes longer than 12 feet and venomous snakes. For a complete list of the snakes, click here.

Violators would be subject to fines ranging from $250 to $1,000 or imprisonment or both. Violators may also have their permit revoked.

The House Natural Resources & Environment Committee is scheduled to hear the bill on May 5, 9:30 a.m. CDT, in the state capitol building.

The Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council (PIJAC) has issued a Pet Alert in which the organization contends that requiring a permit for the handling of live species of reptile and amphibians would limit many reptile dealers’ day-to-day business activities and affect reptile shows. PIJAC also stated that requiring permits for private ownership could spur an underground market, since permit fees and penalties are “lofty.”

“We recommend that Louisiana adopt a more sustainable and flexible regulatory mechanism to handle these species,” PIJAC said in the PetAlert. “The state of Florida has adopted a viable Reptile of Concern program that includes permitting and microchipping in a reasonable manner.”

First Ever Leopard Gecko CT Scan

Article from Reptile Channel
Leopard gecko CT scan picture courtesy Thomas Boyer, DVM.
Leopard gecko scan courtesy BioLaurus.

A leopard gecko belonging to Erik Fields of Santa Barbara, Calif., is believed to be the first in the world to have received treatment for hyperthyroidism, according to veterinarians who treated the 13-year-old reptile.
A key part of this unique case involves the medical equipment used to detect the problem. The 6-inch lizard, named GirlieGrrrl, was diagnosed with a rare CT scan designed for the smallest animals.

GirlieGrrrl’s case began at the Pet Hospital of Penasquitos in San Diego, Calif., where her owner took her to see Thomas Boyer, DVM, who has a special interest in veterinary care of reptiles. He referred the gecko to the Veterinary Imaging Center of San Diego to have her checked for hyperthyroidism.

Fields said his pet was not eating well and she began to lose weight, was shedding frequently and had diarrhea. The center’s founder, Seth Wallack, DVM, Dipl. A.C.V.R., said, “You know a gecko is sick when it’s not taking its crickets.”

To confirm what veterinarians believed, GirlieGrrrl was anesthetized and taped down on her back then went through the scanner for 20 minutes. This CT machine also has a nuclear medicine scanner attached so it not only provides CT images but also shows thyroid activity, Dr. Wallack said.

“The results showed that she had one big thyroid gland, and normal geckos have two small ones,” he said. Since starting treatment with radioiodine therapy, the gecko’s thyroid values have returned to normal.
Follow-up visits show GirlieGrrrl continues to do well, and Dr. Wallack said the pet’s owner has plenty to do with the recovery. “He was with this the whole way,” he said, adding that Fields has spent thousands of dollars on treatments.

Dr. Wallack’s patients include a koala and a gorilla from the San Diego Zoo, as well as other reptiles, and now, GirlieGrrrl, his first leopard gecko.

“I was skeptical that this would work because it hadn’t been done,” he said. “And everything fell into place.”

Blood Squirting Lizard!!

This lizard is called a Horned Lizard, better known as the Blood Squirting Lizard!  Pretty cool huh?  I bet you wish you had one as pet.  Don't worry, I did to until I seen it do this:

http://www.evtv1.com/images/regalzard.jpg

Still really cool, but I don't want it as a pet anymore.  Now for those who are not grossed out because of the blood and are still interested, I am going to give a little information about this Blood Squirting Lizard.

Blood squirting lizards are found all over North America, Central America, and Guatemala on the desert climate regions.  They eat a variety of different kind of insects such as ants, spiders, beetles, roaches, and grasshoppers.

Blood squirting lizards have a few defenses to protect themselves from predators.  One of their first defenses, as with most lizards, is to stay completely still hoping the predator can't see them anymore.  Blood squirting lizards next defense is to run quickly and then stop, this will confuse the predator.  Their third defense is to blow up their body and stick out their spikes hoping to scare the predator away.  These three defense are very similar to what other lizards do.

Now here is the really cool defense, now is the time to click away from this web page if you don't like blood.  Blood squirting lizards can shoot a line of blood at target that is 5 feet away!  This is a very effective method as the blood taste gross to predators or it suprises them and scares the predator off.  Blood squirting lizards perform this defense mechanism by restricting the blood vessels that are leaving the head, wich leads to a build up of extra blood in their head, wich they can shoot out through small tears in the eyes.

It amazes me how similar the resemblence is between the blood squirting lizard and the bearded dragon, the only difference to me is that a bearded dragon can't shoot blood through it's eyes.  This might be just me, let me know what you think.

I hope this article about blood squirting lizards was helpful and interesting, if you have any questions, feel free to email me or comment below.

Cleaning Reptile Cages

Cleaning your reptile cage can be categorized into two categories.  Routine maintenance and monthly maintenance.

Routine maintenance is a daily routine.  Every day you should clean out your reptiles poop, change the water, and take out any uneaten food from the previous day.  Reptiles are very susceptable to bacterial infections and their cages should be kept in a very clean enviornment.  Reptiles also can be carriers of salmonella and this can help to fight that.  Routine maintenance should take anywhere from 5-20 minutes a day.

Monthly maintenance should be done about once a month.  This is where your going to clean everything in the reptile's cage, except the reptile itself of course. Monthly maintenance can take anywhere from 30 minutes - 2 hours.

• The first thing you should do is take your reptile and put it in a safe place.  You can let a friend hold it or you can put your reptile in a safe temperorary container.
• Now take out all your rocks, fake plants, and any other accessory you may have in the reptiles cage and soak it in bleach and water.  Remember it does not take much bleach to get the job done nice and cleanly. 
• Now depending on if your using sand or reptile carpet, will depend on how you need to clean it.  With sand, you can use a cat scooper to sift through the sand, but you will want to change the sand out every couple of months because it can harbor bacteria.  With reptile carpet, you can just toss it into the washer and dryer.
• To clean the inside of you reptile cage, you can buy a specific reptile habitat cleaner or you can just use soap and water.  You just have to make sure you go over it with water again to make sure you got all the soap off.
• Anything else that you feel is necessary to clean, go for it as this is just the basics.

I hope this helps some of you get ideas on how to clean your reptile cages!

Reptile Tank Sizes

Now when you are out looking to buy a reptile cage, keep in mind about the size, so you will have enough room to fit it wherever you are going to put it.  Here is a list of Reptile Tank Sizes and there dimensions below:

Cage Size                Cage Dimensions (LxWxH)

2 1/2 gallon               12" x 6" x 8"

5 gallon                     16" x 8" x 10"

10 gallon Leader       20" x 10" x 12"

15 gallon                   24" x 12" x 12"

15 gallon High           20" x 10" x 18"


20 gallon High           24" x 12" x 16"

20 gallon Long          30" x 12" x 12"

25 gallon                   24" x 12" x 20"

29 gallon                   30" x 12" x 18"

30 gallon Breeder      36" x 18" x 12"

40 gallon Breeder      36" x 18" x 16"

40 gallon Long           48" x 12" x 16"


50 gallon                    36" x 18" x 19"

55 gallon                    48" x 13" x 21"

65 gallon                    36" x 18" x 24"

75 gallon                    48" x 18" x 21"

90 gallon                    48" x 18" x 24"

125 gallon                  72" x 18" x 21"

150 gallon                  72" x 18" x 28"

180 Gallon                 72" x 24" x 25"

Buying Reptile Cages

One of the first things you need to do before buying your reptile is to buy or build the reptile cage.  There are variety of reptiles out there that range from big to small, long to short, climbers to non climbers, desert, and so on.  Each reptile has its own needs and requirements.  Now once you figured those out, you can start thinking about buying or building you reptile cage.

You have a choice to either buy or build your own reptile cage.  Building a reptile cage is cheaper but it takes a considerable amount of work involved.  Now think about how big your reptile gets when it reaches adult hood.  There are some reptiles out there that may require you to build your own reptile cage (for example: an iguana).  To provide a sufficient amount of space for an iguana, you would have to build the reptile cage.  But you can also build a reptile cage for any reptile too. If your going to build your reptile cage, think about if it is going to be an indoor or outdoor reptile cage, so you will get the right materials and see if you have enough space for the reptiles cage.  Think about anything and everything that your reptile will need to live a full life and add some more things to that already long list.  Keep in mind about the lizards lighting, heating and if you want high humidity.  Also, figure out how you are going to take the lizard in and out the cage, whether it be through the top or with front sliding doors.  Your reptile is the most important thing here and you are building your reptile cage around the needs of your reptile, not the other way around.  Building your own reptile cage is cheaper, gives you fulfilling feeling that you did it yourself, and you have the option to make it look however you want.  If you decide to go this route, then enjoy building your masterpiece reptile cage.

Some people either don't have time or don't want to build a reptile cage, So you can buy you reptile cage.  Now when your looking to buy a reptile cage, browse around online and not just at your local petstore.  You can usually find better deals and the prices are going to be cheaper online aswell.  Also, while you are looking around, try to get the best bang for your buck.  You don't want to buy a cheap reptile cage and have it break causing you to buy another. That is wasted money.  Try to look for well put together reptile cage that has a decent price.  You may also want to compare the price of a store bought cage to if you built your own and see what the difference is.

Whatever you decide to choose, I am sure your reptile will love it!  Good luck with your Reptile Cage!

How To Feed A Sick Leopard Gecko

Sick leopard geckos need alot of extra TLC(tender loving care). A leopard gecko most likely will not want to eat if it is sick, but it is VERY important that it does. So here is how you are going to help your leopard gecko out.

Things You Will Need

• .5CC or 1CC Plastic syringe with out needle
• Chicken or turkey baby food
• Pedialyte
• Paper towels
• Bowl
• Spoon

 Step

1. Preparing:
   Take you chicken or turkey baby food and put a spoon full into a bowl. Then take your pedialyte and pour about 2 or 3 spoon full into the bowl. (The pedialyte is used to make the baby food more of a liquid and the pedialyte will help rehydrate your leopard gecko.) Mix it with a spoon until it is a liquid.
2. Take your syringe and suck up as much as you can of the liquid in the bowl.  You want to get as much in there as you can because all of it might not go into your leopard geckos mouth.     
3. Lay out the paper towels.
4. Pick up your sick leopard gecko gently.
5. Set the gecko on the counter and get your syringe.
6. Take the syringe and put it very close to leopard gecko's mouth. Lightly squeeze a little bit at a time and wait for the gecko to lick it off. It might take a few times for the gecko to accept it. Keep repeating that until the syringe is empty.

Tips And Warnings 

• Try to get as much of the food into the geckos mouth, you can't overdue it.
• Be gentle and calm
• Be patient
• Don't force the leopard geckos jaw open because you may accidentally harm the jaw.
• Don't squirt the food into the gecko's mouth if it opens up, it may go down the wrong way in the throat and harm your gecko.

If you have any other questions on feeding a sick leopard gecko, feel free to ask me in the comment section.  Good Luck With Your Sick Leopard Gecko!

Leopard Gecko Care Sheet

Leopard Geckos are one of the most commonly kept reptiles due to they are very docile and low maintenance.  This makes them an excellent choice for children.  Leopard geckos have been captive bred in North America for more than 25 years.  The price range for leopard geckos can be anywhere between 20-2,000 dollars.  The more expensive geckos have been specially breeded for collecting.  Don't worry, There are no health differences between an inexpensive and expensive leopard gecko.  When Leopard geckos are born, they are around 3 inches in length, adult females are 6-8 inches, and adult males are 8-10 inches.  There are giant blood lines that can reach 12-13 inches long too.  Buying a leopard gecko is a serious commitment as they can live between 10-20 years.

Housing A Leopard Gecko.  A 10-15 gallon enclosure can house one adult leopard gecko comfortably and a 20 gallon tank can house 2 adult leopard geckos comfortably.  Geckos are going to need three hides, one for the warm side and one for the cool side so they can thermo-regulate their body temperature.  The third hide box is going to be the leopard gecko's moist box.  You put this on the warm side with moss inside it and damp the moss.  This will raise the humidity in the hide box, to help with shedding and a gravid female can lay her eggs there.  Only use a screen top, as this allows for circulation and you can place accesories such as lights on top.  For more about leopard gecko enclosures, visit Reptile Cages.

Heating And Lighting For A Leopard Gecko.  Leopard geckos require heat to be able to digest just like all reptiles.  The hot side of the cage should be around 90 degrees farenheight and the cool side can be room temperature.  You can provide heat by an undertank heater or a heat lamp.  An undertank heater is the best source as leopard geckos feel heat from their bellies.  But you can use a heat lamp with a rock under it.  Never use heat rocks as they can overheat and burn your leopard gecko.  You can leave a under tank heater on all the time.
Leopard geckos are active at night, which means they do not need any special uvb lighting.

Food And Water For A Leopard Gecko.  Leopard geckos are insectivores, which means they eat only insects.  Use this rule when feeding; The width of the food should be no wider than the width between you leopard gecko's eyes.  You can feed them mealworms, superworms, crickets, or dubia roaches.  Dubia roaches are the healthiest insect you could give to your leopard gecko.  When leopard geckos shed their skin, it is normal for them to eat it.  Feed a baby gecko 2-3 times a day and an adult once every other day.
Fresh clean water should be provided daily to your leopard gecko.  You may not see them drink because they are active at night, but they do.  Be sure the water is shallow, so your leopard gecko can't drown. 


Substrate For A Leopard Gecko.  You can use newspaper, paper towels, or repti-carpet as substrate.  You can use play sand if you feed your leopard geckos in a different enclosure.  I chose to use repti-carpet from birth to adulthood for leopard geckos so there is no risk of impaction.  Leopard geckos will chose a corner of their cage to use as the bathroom so you can just spot clean that area without messing anything else up in the cage.

Supplements For A Leopard Gecko.  You should give your baby gecko calcium with D3 7 times a week and multivitamins 2 times a week and your adult gecko calcium with D3 5 times a week and multivitamins 1-2 times a week.  You do this process by dusting the live food  before you feed your leopard gecko. You can also put a little dish of calcium with D3 inside the leopard geckos enclosure, they will lick it as they please.

I hope my Leopard Gecko Care Sheet helped you and answered any questions you had.  If you have any other questions, feel free to ask in the comments below and I will answer you promptly.

Bearded Dragon Care Sheet

Bearded Dragons make a wonderful addition to any family especially if you have kids that want a reptile.  These lizards are great for begginers and expert reptile hobbyist.  Bearded dragons are very docile in captivity and are becoming more popular as pets because bearded dragons are easy to breed in captivity.  But you do need to undertsand that Bearded Dragons do require some special attention and is a serious commitment as they can live between 6-12 years.

Choosing a Bearded Dragon can be very fulfilling and exciting, but you do not want to buy a bearded dragon off an impulse.  There are some things you need to look at before buying a bearded dragon to make sure it is healthy.  Now it does not matter if you are going to buy from a breeder or the pet store, you are going to be looking for the same things in a bearded dragon.  Here is a list:

• A bearded dragon should be very alert and curious with bright eyes and should be able to lift it's head up. When you are in front of a bearded dragons enclosure, they should be looking at you with interest.
• Make sure the bearded dragon is not lethargic (very skinny).  If it is, this means it is not eating or has a disease.  A bearded dragon's belly should be roundish.  
• Look at the mouth, eyes,"butt area", and nose on the bearded dragon to make sure there is nothing built up.  These areas should look clean.
• Check for any signs of disease, external parasites, sores, look at the bearded dragon's toes to make sure it has all of them, and look at the tail to make sure it is straight and not bent in any area.
• Do not get a bearded dragon that is under 5 inches long, I prefer 6 inches in length, because baby bearded dragons can be more prone to illness due to stress and some baby bearded dragons die due to natural causes.

Housing your Bearded Dragon.  Baby bearded dragons can be housed in a 20-30 gallon enclosure and adult bearded dragons need to be housed in a minimum 40 gallon breeder enclosure but larger is always better.  Now bearded dragons grow so fast, I just bought the 40 gallon breeder to save money from buying two tanks.  Use a screen top, as they provide circulation and let the humidity out.

Search For Reptile Tanks on Amazon.com

Bearded Dragon Lighting.  Bearded dragons require 12-14 hours a day of uvb light to process calcium and vitamin D3.  You can also use unfiltered sunlight, which is the number one best way.  Many people can't provide their bearded dragon with unfiltered sunlight, so they use uvb flourescent tubes which is perfectly fine as long as the bearded dragon can get within 5-6 inches of the uvb light and the uvb light is not going through glass, glass will reflect the uv rays and the uvb tube will be useless for your bearded dragon.  You should replace the uvb flourescent tube every 4-6 months.

 Here are the products that I personally use:

For the light fixture, I suggest the Low Profile Desert Reptile Light Fixture - 2 x 36 in. Lamps - T-5
For the UVB light, I suggest the Zoo Med Reptisun UVB 10.0 HO Light 36in


Heating For Your Bearded Dragon.  As with any other reptile, bearded dragons can't digest their food without heat.  A bearded dragon's basking spot should range between 100-110 degrees farenheight for baby bearded dragons to sub-adults and 95-100 degrees farenheight for adults.  The cool side of the cage should be around 85 degrees farenheight.  Bearded dragons thermoregulate, so it is very important that there is a cool side in the enclosure.  Night time temperatures can fall down to 65 degrees farenheight but not below that.  You can use a heat lamp with a ceramic socket with a reptile basking bulb or a house bulb to give your bearded dragon it's heat.  An important note; Never use heat rocks, they will burn your bearded dragon.

I use 8.5 inch Dimmable Heat Lamp w/ clamp with Zoo Med Repti Basking Lamp 75 Watt for Reptiles.

Substrate For Your Bearded Dragon.  For baby bearded dragons, it is best to use paper towels, newspaper, or repti-carpet.  As they reach adult hood, you can use play sand but I prefer to keep using repti-carpet.  You do not want to use sand for baby dragons because they can get compaction from it.  But it is not only sand that can cause compaction, any loose substrate can cause it.

I personally use Green Reptile Terrarium Liner 55gal.

Feeding Your Bearded Dragon.  Bearded dragons are omnivores so there is a variety of live food items that you can feed to your bearded dragon.  Some of these food items are healthier than others.  The healthiest food you could feed to your bearded dragon are dubia roaches.  An alternative to dubia roaches are crickets.  The rule for feeding live food to your bearded dragons is the width of the food item should be no larger than the width between your bearded dragon's eyes.  If it is larger than your dragon's eyes, it could cause impaction.  You can also feed your bearded dragon mealworms, superworms, and wax worms as a treat.  You should feed a baby dragon 3 times a day, a sub-adult 2 times a day, and an adult once every other day.  Do not feed wild bugs because they could have parasites or pesticides that can harm or kill your dragon.
A bearded dragon also needs to be fed greens and vegetables everyday starting a week after it was born.  Here are some healthy greens and vegetables you can feed; Dandelion greens, Collard greens, Mustard greens, Bok choy, Kale, Turnip greens, Escarole, Chicory, Butternut squash, Any form of squash, Green beans,  and Parsnips.  You should not feed spinach because it causes calcium to bind and won't be digested.  Greens and vegetables should be diced up to be smaller than the width between your bearded dragon's eyes.



Supplements For Your Bearded Dragon.  Bearded dragons need calcium with D3 and multivitamins to live long healthy lives.  If your bearded dragon does not get enough calcium, it will develop MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease).  For baby dragons to sub-adults, there food should be dusted 7 times a week with calcium and 2 times a week with multivitamins.  For adults, their food should be dusted with calcium 5 times a week and with multivitamins 2 times a week.

I use Fluker's 4 oz Repta Calcium.

Water For Your Bearded Dragon.  Most bearded dragons will not drink from water sitting in their cage, so it is not necessary to have a bowl of water in their enclosure.  They will receive most of their water from baths and live food.

Baths For Your Bearded Dragon.  Bathing your bearded dragon is extremely important.  Baths will hydrate your bearded dragon.  You should give them a bath at least once a week for 15-20 minutes, you can't overdue giving them a bath so don't worry about that.  The water should be warm enough for a human baby to go in, you can test it with your wrist or elbow.  Bathing also aids in shedding, so if you see your bearded dragon having a little trouble with a shed, give him a bath for 10 -15 minutes.  Bathing can also help in digestion, if a bearded dragon is compacted bathing them might help loosen their bowel up.  Now be prepared, as your bearded dragon will most likely poop in the bath, this is normal and makes clean up alot easier.

I hope this Bearded Dragon Care Sheet helped you.  Leave comments if their is something you don't agree with, if you would like me to add something, or if you just want to say thank you.  I will answer any questions you ask.

If you would like to browse other items related to bearded dragons such as guide books, Search Amazon.com for bearded dragon

General Reptile Information

Reptiles, otherwise known as reptilia, are amnion.  Amnion means they reproduce completely on land.  Their extraembryonic membranes provide nutrients, protect the embryo and facilitate waste and gas exchange.

Scales on reptiles are used to help protect from predators and dehydration.

Reptiles are ectothermic, that means their body temperature matches the temperature surrounding them.

Reptiles have a four-chambered heart, well developed lungs, and their tongue is used as a sense organ.


These are just some general information about reptiles that most of you probably don't care about, but for those that do, there you go.  If you would like me to add something just let me know.

Welcome To Pet Reptile Zone

Welcome To Pet Reptile Zone!  Here at Pet Reptile Zone, I will be posting information about pet reptile care sheets, pet reptile medicine, pet reptile habitats, best food for your pet reptiles, and much more.  Pet Reptile Zone will be the only stop your going to have to make on the internet to find out information for your pet reptile.  Enjoy and feel free to post comments about how you feel about the website and any information you would like me to talk about.  If you have a certain reptile that you would like to know about, Just post a comment about it and I will get it up asap.  Enjoy your time here at Pet Reptile Zone!